Hong Kong: Home Coming to a Harbour
It was a beautiful, sunny, and oh not so humid morning of March 2007 when a bright streak of light woke the boy from Babhnan with a start. He looked out of the window and it felt like the plane was about to land on water! He looked around, a little startled, saw everyone composed and so did he. A red eye flight, his first international one, he had taken 7 hours ago from Delhi had brought him to Hong Kong, the city he would soon call home.
Hong Kong. That was a full 6,000 years after humans first set foot in the territory. 2200 years after it became part of the Chinese Empire for the first time. 500 after the first European came here, Portugese Jorge Álvares.
Hong Kong: a jungle of concrete and grass. Where the East meets West. The financial capital of the world. And the Disneyland and the Ocean Park.
Local tip: If you must, go to the Ocean Park, it is so much better than the Disney.
The village boy was a little nervous, but he was armed with his most trusted weapon: a well rehearsed abandon bordering on disdain. Whole buildings of glass, so what? It is just the glitter. The Khadi kurta, rugged jeans and Hawai Chappal- the JNU uniform that got him many stares- from immigration to immigration was part of that abandon, a carefully rehearsed one, though.
He followed the crowd running to the immigration, pretending he was not, as if he had been clearing immigration since he was an infant. A faint smile ran through his cheeks. The memories of entering glass buildings when he had first come to Delhi were back. That careful look- on people behaving ‘normal’ and imitating them.
That was the only nervousness the boy would ever have with this city.
Hong Kong was nothing that those cinematic ‘establishing shots’ made it to be. Yeah, Victoria Harbour is beautiful, but it was only as much the city as is India Gate Delhi. The Peak too, only as much Hong Kong as Gateway of India was Mumbai.
Yeah, the ‘heart’ of Hong Kong is all glass and concrete. Provided you could call that place, always in flux with people moving in and out as they would from any financial hub Hong Kong in the first place. No one calls Dubai airport’s transit area Dubai, right? That glass and concrete part is only that much Hong Kong. People come here, mostly on short time assignments and go. Without even knowing the city.
Beyond that exist well-knit communities in villages 300 to 400 years old still farming. Many of them are still walled in a throwback to the times gone by.
The village boy immediately belonged here, settled in the first he took as home with windows looking at sprawling bonsai mandarin plantations on one hand and a lush green hill behind. It was not love at first sight, but a lifelong romance had begun.
A romance that would take him to the Tai Mo Shan- a hike traversing over 5 waterfalls, largest over a 100 meters in a row, in a single hike! Startled? The boy too was- only till he took a nice long swim in the natural pool in the third one. Or to the Tung Lung Fort built in 1722 to guard against the pirates. Or the Bride’s Pool- another waterfall combined with a beautiful valley praying for the wife who lost her life while crossing the waterways, after whom the waterfall took its name.
Or the stilted villages like Tai O with their unfolding bridges taking you straight to further south east- Vietnam and Cambodia.
And the villages with their centuries-old traditions living on for centuries- the dragon dances, the bun festivals in which a very rustic looking person sees you and you being the only non-Chinese there starts explaining the history and the ritual. And then that he is Vice President or this and that in HSBC or again, this or that!
And yeah, the small bunkers, now shrines, dug by the Hong Kongers who resisted the Japanese during World War II with all their might, often making the biggest of the sacrifices. And the sprawling parks in the middle of the city with retired elderlies playing Mahjong all day, often also babysitting their grandchildren as both the parents would have gone to work.
Hong Kong is now home. Yeah, I often feel sad seeing a few of the fields in front of my house disappearing every year, yet, happy that forests make for them. Yeah, forests cover over 26,400 hectares of the total area of Hong Kong, about 23.8%- much more than during the World Wars.
Come, visit my home. But please please please, not on those 2 nights 3 days packages. I can share with you some best-kept secrets for a longer and better rendezvous with this harbor I now call home.
Just curious. Has the well rehearsed abandon stayed?? Thanks for the invite. Someday…
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It so certainly has! The small boy from Babhnan who started learning English only in std 6th and was completely “Hindi Medium” till 12th slowly became very good at academic English. But bring him back to the basics, which he could never learn, and he still stumbles- Garlic bread is fine now, but always fumbling between carrom and fennel seed and so on. So he learnt this trick: the rehearsed abandon: look at the menu, very confidently, and ask the waiter with a shrug: so what do you suggest, mate 🙂
I love the pictures. They say a lot more than what you have written down.
Lovely pictures and very well-written. Thank you for sharing this.
When I think of HongKong the picture of a clean hi-tech city with a maze of flyovers come to my mind. I didn’t know about such beautiful natural landscapes there. It’s beautiful.
90% of Hong Kong is like this only- with over 200 kms of hiking trails!
I am enjoying the stories that ensue your memories of place and the pictures that come along. Keep more coming.
Thanks a ton 🙂
Beautiful post. I can relate to the first flight and well rehearsed abandon 🙂
I always knew and heard of Hong Kong as a concrete jungle, with everyone VP of this and that:)
I have a different perception now.
That made for a very interesting virtual trip to Hong Kong. The bun festival is intriguing and the Ocean Park is pretty impressive!
This post will make you remember all the lovely things about #HongKong. Brilliantly written 🙂